Onder den Toren, Mechelen, Belgium
Cathedral of St. Rumbold (Sint-Romboutskathedraal)
The seat of the Archbishop of Mechelen-Brussels and the primatial cathedral of Belgium, dominated by a massive unfinished Gothic tower that holds one of the finest carillons in the world.
St. Rumbold's tower was supposed to be the tallest in Christendom. Construction began in 1452, and the plan called for a spire that would reach over 600 feet. The money ran out, and the tower stops flat at 318 feet — no spire, just a blunt top. It is still one of the tallest church towers in the Low Countries, and it holds a carillon of 49 bells that is considered among the best in existence. The cathedral below the tower dates from the thirteenth century onward, a grand example of Brabantine Gothic with a broad nave, tall clerestory windows, and a choir surrounded by radiating chapels. The interior holds a Crucifixion by Anthony van Dyck — one of his finest religious paintings — hanging in the south transept. The Baroque carved pulpit by Michiel Vervoort depicts the conversion of St. Norbert. Mechelen has been the seat of the Catholic primate of Belgium since 1559, and the cathedral carries that weight — it is where the most important ecclesiastical ceremonies in the country take place. The climb to the top of the tower, 538 steps, rewards you with a view across Flanders to Brussels and Antwerp on clear days.
Diocese: Archdiocese of Mechelen-Brussels
Style: Brabantine Gothic
What to See
The tower climb is 538 steps and not for the faint-hearted, but the carillon mechanism and the views make it worthwhile. If you time your visit for a carillon concert — usually on Monday evenings in summer — you can hear the bells played live from the cabin near the top. Inside the cathedral, the Van Dyck Crucifixion deserves a long look. The Baroque pulpit is theatrical and detailed. The choir stalls and the radiating chapels behind the altar contain smaller paintings and carved details that reward slow exploration. The stained glass in the clerestory fills the nave with colored light on sunny mornings.
Pilgrim Notes
Mechelen is halfway between Brussels and Antwerp by train — about fifteen minutes from either city. The cathedral is in the center of town, a short walk from the station. The city is compact and pleasant, with good restaurants and a beautiful Grote Markt. The tower has set visiting hours and a small admission fee for the climb. Carillon concert schedules are posted online. Combine Mechelen with a visit to Scherpenheuvel to the east or the cathedral in Ghent to the west for a day of Belgian Catholic heritage.