Strasbourg, Alsace, France
Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Strasbourg
A Gothic cathedral on the French-German border with a single completed spire, an astronomical clock, and a sandstone facade whose red-pink glow changes with the light.
The red sandstone makes all the difference. Most Gothic cathedrals are built in gray or cream limestone, but Strasbourg used Vosges sandstone, and the result is a building that blushes. In morning light, the facade is salmon pink. At sunset, it turns deep rust. At night, under floodlights, it glows amber. The west front is a screen of tracery so dense and intricate that Victor Hugo called it a giant piece of lace. Only the north spire was completed, rising 142 meters — for over two hundred years, from 1647 to 1874, it was the tallest building in the world. The south spire was never built, giving the cathedral an asymmetrical silhouette. Inside, the nave is tall and narrow, with stained glass windows dating from the twelfth to the fourteenth century. The rose window in the west front is a wheel of deep blues and reds. The astronomical clock in the south transept is a Renaissance marvel — a tower of painted dials, automata, and mechanical figures that puts on a show daily at half past noon, with apostles parading before a crowing rooster and a figure of Death striking the hours. The Pillar of Angels, a freestanding sculpted column nearby, shows the Last Judgment in tiers. Strasbourg has changed hands between France and Germany multiple times, and the cathedral carries both traditions — French Gothic structure, German sculptural sensibility.
Diocese: Archdiocese of Strasbourg
Style: Gothic (Romanesque foundations, High and Late Gothic superstructure)
What to See
Approach from the west to see the full facade — the tracery screen is best appreciated from the square below, where the sandstone color is most vivid. Inside, the nave stained glass is exceptional; the oldest panels are in the north aisle and show scenes from the life of Christ in deep, jewel-like colors. The astronomical clock is in the south transept — arrive before 12:30 to see the automata. The Pillar of Angels nearby is a masterpiece of Gothic sculpture, with figures of the Evangelists at the base and angels trumpeting the Last Judgment above. The crypt is accessible and contains Romanesque remnants of the earlier cathedral. The viewing platform at 66 meters on the tower facade is open to climbers — the views of Alsace and the Black Forest are wide and clear.
Pilgrim Notes
Strasbourg is on the French-German border, reachable by TGV from Paris in under two hours or by train from Frankfurt in about two hours. The cathedral is in the Grande Île, the historic island center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There is no admission fee for the cathedral. The astronomical clock show requires a small ticket purchased inside. The tower climb has a separate fee. Mass is celebrated daily. The area around the cathedral is picturesque, with half-timbered Alsatian houses, winstubs, and the Petite France district along the canal. Christmas markets in December are famous and draw huge crowds. The cathedral can be very busy in summer — early morning is best for a quiet visit.