Old Goa, Goa, India
Se Cathedral of Santa Catarina
The largest church in Asia at the time of its construction, built by the Portuguese in Old Goa to celebrate their conquest and now a monument to the Catholic heritage of India.
The Portuguese built big in Goa, and this cathedral is the proof. Se Cathedral is over 76 meters long with a vault that rises to nearly 30 meters — it was the largest church in Asia when completed in 1640, and it is still one of the largest. It was built to honor St. Catherine of Alexandria on whose feast day the Portuguese captured the city of Goa in 1510. The facade originally had two towers, but the south tower collapsed in 1776 and was never rebuilt, giving the building a lopsided look that has become its signature. The surviving tower holds five bells, the largest of which — the Golden Bell — is famous for its deep, clear tone and is the largest bell in Goa. Inside, the church is Tuscan-influenced Renaissance on the lower level and Corinthian on the upper, with a gilded main altarpiece depicting scenes from the life of St. Catherine. The Blessed Sacrament Chapel has one of the finest gilded altarpieces in India. The church feels vast and somewhat empty today — Old Goa is now a small village, and the cathedral built for a booming colonial capital serves a much quieter community. But Mass is still celebrated, and the Feast of St. Catherine on November 25 fills the church again.
Diocese: Archdiocese of Goa and Daman
Style: Portuguese Late Renaissance / Mannerist
What to See
The main altar retablo is the centerpiece — a large gilded wooden structure with painted panels showing scenes from the life of St. Catherine, including her martyrdom on the wheel. The Blessed Sacrament Chapel to the right of the sanctuary has an even more elaborate gilded altar and is worth a long look. The Chapel of the Cross of Miracles houses a crucifix said to have grown in size and to which miraculous healings are attributed. The font near the entrance is traditionally said to be the one used by St. Francis Xavier during his mission in Goa, though this is disputed. Walk outside to see the asymmetrical facade — the missing tower gives the building an unexpectedly modern look. The surviving bell tower is massive, and the Golden Bell can sometimes be heard ringing across Old Goa.
Pilgrim Notes
Se Cathedral is in Old Goa, about ten kilometers east of Panaji, the state capital. It is open daily and free to enter. Mass is celebrated regularly in Konkani and English. Old Goa was once called the Rome of the East, and several other major churches are within walking distance: the Basilica of Bom Jesus (holding the relics of St. Francis Xavier), the Church of St. Francis of Assisi, and the Church of St. Cajetan. The Feast of St. Catherine on November 25 and the Exposition of St. Francis Xavier's relics (held every ten years) are the major events. Old Goa can be hot and humid — bring water and visit in the morning. The archaeological museum in the former convent of St. Francis of Assisi is worth a stop.