Sint-Baafsplein, Ghent, Belgium
St. Bavo's Cathedral (Sint-Baafskathedraal)
The cathedral of Ghent that houses the Ghent Altarpiece, Jan and Hubert van Eyck's polyptych masterpiece — one of the most important and most stolen works of art in history.
St. Bavo's Cathedral would be worth visiting for its architecture alone — a Gothic choir from the fourteenth century, a Romanesque crypt surviving from an earlier church, a mix of stone and brick that tells the building history of Flanders. But what draws people here, and has drawn them for nearly six hundred years, is a painting. The Ghent Altarpiece, also called The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, was completed by Jan van Eyck in 1432, possibly with contributions from his brother Hubert. It is a polyptych of twelve panels showing, when open, the adoration of the Lamb of God in a green meadow surrounded by saints, angels, and the just — painted with a precision and luminosity that changed the course of Western art. The altarpiece has been stolen, dismembered, hidden from Napoleon, looted by the Nazis, recovered by the Monuments Men, and painstakingly restored. It now sits in a climate-controlled chapel in the cathedral, viewable up close after the major restoration completed in 2024. The rest of the cathedral holds works by Rubens, including his entry into the monastery of St. Bavo, and a fine Baroque pulpit. The Romanesque crypt below contains medieval wall paintings and the tomb of Ghent's bishops.
Diocese: Diocese of Ghent
Style: Gothic with Romanesque crypt
What to See
The Ghent Altarpiece is in the baptistery chapel, accessible with a timed ticket. Take your time — the panels reward close looking. The Lamb in the central panel was repainted in the sixteenth century and recently restored to van Eyck's original, slightly startling version with its front-facing eyes. The surrounding panels of approaching saints, knights, hermits, and pilgrims are painted with microscopic detail. After the altarpiece, visit the Romanesque crypt below the choir for medieval wall paintings and the calm of underground stone. Rubens' painting of St. Bavo is in the nave. The Baroque pulpit, carved in oak and marble, depicts the Tree of Life.
Pilgrim Notes
Ghent is about thirty minutes from Brussels by train. The cathedral is in the center of the old city, near the Belfry and St. Nicholas' Church. Timed tickets for the altarpiece chapel are recommended — buy them online in advance during busy seasons. There is a small fee for the altarpiece viewing; the rest of the cathedral is free. The city itself is one of the most beautiful in Flanders, with canals, medieval guild houses, and excellent food. Combine with a visit to St. Rumbold's in Mechelen or the Cathedral of Our Lady in Antwerp.