New Orleans, Louisiana, United States
Cathedral-Basilica of Saint Louis, King of France
The oldest continuously active Roman Catholic cathedral in the United States, standing on Jackson Square in the French Quarter since 1727.
Three white steeples above Jackson Square, visible from the river. That is the postcard image, but the real thing hits differently when you are standing in the heat with a brass band playing two blocks away and the smell of beignets drifting from Cafe Du Monde. The cathedral has been here in one form or another since the French founded the parish in 1720. Fire destroyed the first two buildings. The current structure dates to 1850, with a facade that is more restrained than you expect — painted white plaster over brick, with a clock tower flanked by two hexagonal spires. Inside, the ceiling murals by Erasmus Humbrecht show scenes from the life of St. Louis IX, the crusader king of France, painted in muted colors that have softened further with age and humidity. The pews are dark wood, worn smooth. This is a working parish in a city that has buried and rebuilt itself repeatedly — floods, fires, yellow fever, hurricanes. The cathedral has matched the city's stubbornness, staying open through every disaster. After Katrina in 2005, it was one of the first public buildings to hold services again.
Diocese: Archdiocese of New Orleans
Style: Spanish Colonial with French influences
What to See
Enter through the main doors facing Jackson Square and let your eyes adjust. The ceiling murals are the main visual attraction — nine panels depicting St. Louis's life, painted in the 1870s. The stained glass is modest compared to Gothic cathedrals but fits the building's character. The side altars have painted wooden statues of saints common to French and Spanish devotion. The rear of the cathedral connects to the old Cabildo and Presbytere buildings, now Louisiana State Museums. St. Anthony's Garden behind the church is a quiet courtyard that most tourists walk right past — it is one of the most peaceful spots in the Quarter.
Pilgrim Notes
The cathedral is on Jackson Square in the heart of the French Quarter, impossible to miss. Mass is celebrated daily, with multiple Sunday Masses. Confessions are available regularly. The cathedral is open for self-guided visits during the day and there is no admission fee, though donations are welcomed. It gets crowded during Mardi Gras season, Easter, and Christmas. The feast of St. Louis is August 25. Parking in the Quarter is difficult — take the streetcar or walk. Be prepared for heat and humidity from May through October. The surrounding square has street performers, artists, and vendors, so the transition from noise to silence when you step inside is dramatic.