1723 Race Street, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA
Cathedral Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul
The mother church of the Archdiocese of Philadelphia, a grand Roman Corinthian structure on the Benjamin Franklin Parkway whose unusually high windows were originally designed to prevent anti-Catholic vandalism.
Philadelphia's cathedral, completed in 1864, tells you something about American Catholic history before you even walk inside. The windows are set unusually high — above the reach of thrown stones. When construction began in 1846, anti-Catholic riots had swept the city just two years earlier, burning two churches to the ground. The architects, Napoleon LeBrun and John Notman, designed accordingly: a brownstone exterior in the Roman Corinthian style with windows placed well above street level. The result is actually beautiful. The high clerestory floods the interior with light from above, creating a luminous, almost ethereal quality. Inside, the nave is broad and open under a coffered barrel vault. The baldacchino over the altar is modeled on Bernini's in St. Peter's Basilica. Eight large paintings in the apse depict scenes from the lives of Peter and Paul. The side chapels include a chapel dedicated to St. Katharine Drexel, who was a Philadelphia native and whose family helped finance the cathedral. Pope Francis celebrated Mass here during his 2015 visit to the city for the World Meeting of Families.
Diocese: Archdiocese of Philadelphia
Style: Roman Corinthian (Neoclassical)
What to See
Notice the window height from outside — once you know why, you see the building differently. Inside, the barrel-vaulted ceiling and high clerestory create a sense of height and light that is striking. The baldacchino over the altar is the focal point. The apse paintings of Peter and Paul are large-scale and dramatic. The St. Katharine Drexel chapel on the north side tells the story of one of Philadelphia's own saints, who gave away a vast fortune to serve Black and Native American communities. The organ, a four-manual Reuter, sounds particularly good during Sunday liturgies.
Pilgrim Notes
The cathedral faces Logan Square on the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, surrounded by the city's major museums. The Philadelphia Museum of Art is a short walk west, and the Rodin Museum is even closer. SEPTA buses serve the Parkway, and Suburban Station is about a ten-minute walk. The cathedral is open daily and Mass is offered regularly. The nearby National Shrine of St. John Neumann at St. Peter the Apostle Church in North Philadelphia is a worthwhile addition — Neumann was the first male American saint and served as Bishop of Philadelphia.